Paris Haute Couture fashion week went digital for FW2020/2021 and I have to say, nothing beats the real live shows. However, life goes on despite Covid19 and the fashion machine must keep churning.
Despite the pandemic’s rude interruption, I was still so looking forward to this event. I found the online presentation format of the three days very easy to navigate, with punctual presentations and a ‘watch later’ function if you missed one. There was also an impressive selection of interviews in English and French and everything will be available till September on line so do try and check the site.
Designers sent press releases and images via email to give a fuller understanding of their creative concepts and offerings. And in terms of the presentations, the short ones under 12 minutes worked best for me. Like Dior’s 10-minute Pre-Raphaelite fairy-tale made by Italian filmmaker Matteo Garrone. Maybe it’s because that romantic dreamlike fantasy is just what I need right now, but the whole collection was heavenly and the atelier miniatures fantastic.
I also loved Frank Sobier’s presentation, directed by Amaury Voslion. It scared me, but simultaneously captivated me with its story, its drama and all that glorious lace & paisley featured throughout the scenes.
I was obsessed with the film made for Azzaro Couture, directed by Belgian filmmaker Lukas Dhont. featuring singer Sylvie Kreusch. I loved the Dhont-Kreusch combo, plus I would wear every single piece in the collection – oh for the love of jacquards.
Finally, being a bit of a vintage queen, I loved Viktor & Rolf’s retro references and the presentation, directed by Marijke Aerden, addressed many of the issues we are all facing, but in a light and fun way – think social distancing coats and dressing gowns or negligees made exclusively to wear at home. I mean, who doesn’t love a peignoir!
In terms of clothes, I loved the simplicity of Imane Ayissi’s collection; created using scraps of fabric from previous collections yet still managing to be fabulous, with long textured patchwork skirts and mini dresses. Christophe Josse’s collection was a beautiful combination of natural materials like silk, lace and wool, put together to make the most elegant capes, coats and gowns in a Paris by night cityscape that I miss so much. And I have to mention Stéphane Rolland’s spectacular beadwork and Stéphane Rolland’s pure, graphic, architectural aesthetic, modelled by his muse Nieves Álvarez – perfect in the role of a strong 2020 woman.
Oh and how can I finish without mentioning La Metamorphose and those glorious masks all fabulously shot in the romantic setting of Chateau Royal d’Amboise