Magic was in the air in Paris last week for the Spring Summer 2020 edition of Haute Couture Week, which had its fair share of memorable moments, fabulous creations and trends to confirm for the upcoming season, becuase of course Couture is different..

It shows twice a year and in season ..

In fact Couture is the antithesis of ready-to-wear: one-off pieces rather than mass-produced; expensive yes but the artisanal work on each piece is precious, it’s a timeless piece, rather than trend-led but there is always a vein of what we will be seeing in summer because of course it’s the interpretation of the designers understanding of the moment.

Perhaps the biggest news of the event was Jean Paul Gaultier’s farewell to fashion as the couture icon presented his last ever show which certainly drew an all-star audience. And his favourite models  The show was a colourful retrospective of his 50-year career, with 230 looks made out of recycled old collections. But didn’t they look fresh and ‘du jour ’ ?

Including – of-course – updatded looks of the  sailor tops he became famous for. The original designer known for breaking gender barriers, Gaultier’s signature brand of runway camp was out in full force.

On the trend spectrum, for Spring Summer 2020 couture will be all about the usual blacks and pure whites, as well as pastels and gold – the latter of which was championed by Dior which sent models down the runway in golden gowns like Grecian goddesses.

As for material, look out for satin – I adored the black silk-satin trouser suit by Schiaparelli – tulle and chiffon. Dior also created transluscent capes in flowing silk and tulle. And in fact, capes are still a strong look, also seen at Ralph and Russo and George Hobeika.

Ruffles and oversized shoulders is confirmation that the trend is here to stay  are also set to be another look to watch out for, exemplified to perfection by Spanish designer Juana Martin, whose collection of gorgeous gowns was characterised by dramatic statement shoulders, necklines and sleeves. I particularly loved the polka-dot dresses. Givenchy also used oversized ruffles to adorn dresses in pastel purples and blues.

On the opposite end of the colour spectrum, Flora Miranda is a collection I always enjoy seeing she looks to the future and tests our perceptions with a narrative which is both optimistic and creative,  this time she went full black and white with an extravagant, graphic monochromatic collection, which not only embraced gender fluidity and inclusivity, but also the theatrical whimsy of couture.