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Colour to uplift the mood - Summer Autumn 21

Ester Manas

As we are currently experiencing a sort of ominous situation there is joy at the idea of freedom but an unerving thought about what price were going to pay for it., I thought we could all do with a splash of colour in our lives. And with the Haute couture winter 2021 palette proving so vibrant and bright, this seemed like the perfect opportunity.

Avavav

So what colours should we all be dreaming of wearing for the upcoming season? And which designers are championing these hues? Well, Haute Couture colours were all about pastel purples (armani) an down right purple too Arturo Ortega , pyscadelic prints van herpen , silverULYANA SERGEENKO,Schiaparelli , orange from sunrise to sunset ,ripped denim blues is that a colour , red and greyand trench beige MAISON RABIH KAYROUZ.

Gudu

One brand making a colour statement this season was Pyer Moss designer Kerby Jean-Raymond was set to make history as the first Black-American designer invited by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Collections to make his couture debut, Raymond and his guests were thrown a massive curveball.One after the other, everyday essentials made their way onto the runway, from a bottle cap worn as a skirt to an ice cream cone pants set to a horseshoe adorning a gown. It was a buffet for the eyes, until it settled in your mind that there’s actually a pattern happening on the runway. School is no longer in session but your Google search history would be full by the final look. A model dressed in a peanut butter jar reminded us that George Washington Carver may not have invented peanut butter, but he did develop over 300 ways to use peanuts; Aoki Lee (Kimora Lee Simmons’ daughter) modeled a brown checkered chess suit, a game that can be traced back all the way to Africa. Another model emerged in an emerald green curtain dress held up by an actual curtain rod to give flowers to Samuel Scottron, the man best known for inventing the curtain rod.Elsewhere in the show were more inventions by Black figures, like the air conditioning unit fastened to a golden yellow maxi dress and a tower of hair curlers draped around an orange and blue robe—a look that Raymond said took four months to complete. “We had people sitting there curling all the hair and putting them onto each hair roller,” he added. In true Pyer Moss fashion, the show culminated with a final message using scattered magnets on the refrigerator that read, “But who invented Black trauma?” It calls to mind the message on the tubes of weed Raymond handed out days earlier. “We’re tired of waiting on reparations and an apology. Til then … we’re getting in the weed business.”

Ester Manas

Another label which is doing colour proud this coming season is Ester Manas – a young designer I discovered at Paris Fashion Week, who runs her brand according to the slogan ‘Size Doesn’t Matter’. All pieces are created according to a ‘one size for all’ concept and this season they have some uber cool ruffle tops and dresses in on-trend colours such as chive green, a light sky blue and pastel tangerine orange, as well as the earthy, burnt-orange hue popular with big names such as Valentino and Marc Jacobs for SS20.

Zandra Rhodes

Demna Gvasalia presented the first couture collection at one of the original couture houses, Balenciaga, in 53 years.