While attending MBFWM in Madrid this past weekend for the SS23 collections, I found myself pondering on some of the labels who are trying to embrace a more sustainable model and how these values translate when showing at a traditional fashion week like MBFWM.
There are plenty of labels who show that it can be done, including Aurelia Gil from the Canary Islands, who was present to showcase her ‘365’ collection. While the collection itself received much acclaim, it also encapsulated Aurelia’s ethical beliefs and values. She works according to a slow fashion model, only producing pieces on demand and making sure everything is sourced locally. At the same time, she is innovative and creative, with a clear passion for incorporating artisanal pieces of excellent quality that are timeless and made to last.
This season, for example, she developed an innovative crochet and lycra thread in her workshop, which was then crocheted into patterns by La Palma based artisan Eloisa Pascual, for the ‘365’ collection. Ideal for swimwear, the material can get wet, but also looks flattering and unique.
For this spectacular collection, Aurelia Gil collaborated with Rachel Hammerhoj – a Tenerife-based designer and founder of Hammerhoj footwear and accessory label. Hammerhoj designed a wooden sole mule with a spherical heel and leather upper for the catwalk showcase.
The label also collaborated with the Ingenio Caladoras Collective for the embroidery of the collection. The group are artisans who specialise in Calado – a traditional style of embroidery from the Canary Islands, that they used to create the iconic emblem of the label. This was then placed on the 100% silk pieces of the collection. Then there is Pilar Ureña Escariz – a weaver using banana fibre to create innovative design and fashion pieces – who was behind the bags and earrings of the collection. Lastly jewellery craftswoman Claudia Acosta developed the crimped earrings in sterling silver and 18K gold plated sterling silver. Aurelia Gil’s workshop is located in Las Palmas and is made up of an all female team.
By creating timeless pieces with quality materials produced locally and collaborating with local artisans that are keeping traditional techniques steeped in history alive, you are creating pieces that will be in use and treasured foreever. Use and reuse is primory in a circular economy .