Lagos Space Programme – a Nigeria-based label that seeks to challenge the image of African fashion with designs rooted in Yoruba tradition and queer identity – was named the winner of the 2023 International Woolmark Prize at a ceremony in Paris last May.

And in a move fuelled by ethics and social responsibility, the label’s founder Adeju Thompson plans to invest the enormous USD$134,000 prize money into boosting the manufacturing capacity in Nigeria – a country they described as plagued by political corruption and energy shortages.

But although Adeju hails from Nigeria, they consider themselves an international designer. And with the prize including the opportunity to be stocked at top fashion retailers around the world, this aspiration is appearing increasingly probable.

The money will also be invested in the brand’s infrastructure, including installing a solar panel. For Adeju, it is very important to communicate who they are as a queer person from Nigeria, but also to break misconceptions about African design. Although inspired by the global designer’s African roots, the clothes can be worn in any context and are first and foremost appreciated for their exceptional design quality .

The Woolmark jury tasked the finalists with designing six merino wool looks as part of their fall 2023 collections, or a standalone capsule line highlighting the innate versatility, innovative nature and ecocredentials of merino wool. Lagos Space Programme created a collection that melded tailored pieces, some lined with the indigo dyed Adire cloth made in southwestern Nigeria, and looser pieces like its signature Yoruba wide pants inspired by Japanese fashion.

Displaying an impressive collective commitment toward sustainable design, the eight other finalists include Danish knitwear brand A. Roege Hove who won The Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation, U.S. brand Rhude, South Korean brand Maxxij, France’s Bluemarble, Irish men’s label Robyn Lynch, Marco Rambaldi from Italy and London-based brand Paolina Russo.