There is something romantic about leather goods. They evoke the desire to travel to faraway places. Or they set the tone for sophistication in the form of an elegant belt, a classic wallet or a briefcase primed and ready to close important deals. However, this doesn't mean that leather goods can't be fun. Santi Carballo, a Canarian artisan fashion designer from the Spanish island of Gran Canaria, creates leather art with his fun, rainbow-coloured designs. With more than 25 years of experience, this self-taught artist has created a brand recognised for its disruptive and sustainable designs.

Santi Carballo, a Canarian artisan fashion designer to watch

Santi Carballo's brand consists of exquisitely designed bags, briefcases, belts, backpacks and bumbags, recognisable by their level of excellence, not by their logos. But if you ask about the inspiration behind his designs, the answer is always going to be the same. Reflection. This is the key behind Santi's collections. For him, each collection is a synthesis of situations, thoughts and feelings, captured in leather. A notable example is his “BW Obsession” collection, inspired by his childhood and the technical drawing lessons of his teacher Don Pedro. This approach allows him to create pieces that are not only aesthetically unique but also resonate deeply on an emotional level.

Designing Canarian leather accessories in a disruptive and balanced style.

Santi Carballo is more than just an accessories designer. His leather creations for men and women embody a quiet luxury seldom seen in mass-produced handbags. Describing his style as "disruptive," Santi blends textures, sheens, and colours in a quest for balance and harmony. This distinctive approach serves as a subtle form of education, challenging the labels and conventions of the fashion industry.

Gran Canaria's fashion designers and island influences

Although Canarian culture is not a direct source of inspiration for Santi, it does influence his approach which is contrary to the belief that “everything good comes from outside”. This mentality is reflected in his creative process and how he confronts challenges, overcomes fear and keeps his feet on the ground, like a kite flying freely but always in control.

5 minutes with Santi Carballo, leather accessories designer

Seduced by his fascinating career, his decades of fashion stories and his unique designs, we catch up with Santi Carballo, Canarian artisan fashion designer, to discover the process of creating his gorgeous designer bags.

What is the creative process behind the design of fashion accessories made with leather?

The creative process is influenced by various situations, thoughts, and feelings. My first consideration is what my customers might need. Then, I focus on differentiating myself from the global market, and finally, I think about the conciliatory aesthetics I can offer to appeal to the widest audience. The last step is determining the selling price. This involves an internal process of gathering information and synthesising feelings.

This process results in a prototype, complete with production calculations. With the prototype in hand, we enter a cycle to decide if it meets the predefined parameters, shaping the future of the company. This may involve aesthetic adjustments, changes in production times, discarding the initial idea, or generating a new one.

What leatherworking techniques are your favourites and why?

Having an almost obsessive fixation with finishes, I am always innovating with techniques, creating challenges, mixing styles and even going back to the more traditional ones. The reality is that the more sophisticated it is, the more I like it, but most of the time you have to be pragmatic when it comes to production times. 

“You can't make gold fish and sell them by weight.”

How do you integrate sustainability into your process of designing and producing? 

There is no such thing as 100% sustainability. However, like many other Canarian fashion designers, I strive to be as environmentally responsible as possible. I use only European leather that adheres to environmental regulations throughout the supply chain. I avoid using leather from purpose-bred farms or endangered animals, relying solely on those derived from the meat industry. All manufacturing products, including glues, dyes, and waterproofing agents, are water-based and ecological. I do not use solvents. The personalised trim is made in Spain using the most eco-friendly methods available. For packaging, I use natural cotton bags made in Spain, which are reusable. There are no “Made in China” materials in my production process. With leftover materials, I create small leather goods, and patchwork collections, or donate them to associations.

Surplus production is also donated to associations, often for fundraising raffles. To minimise fuel costs, I group orders for shipping whenever possible.

In my workshop and leather goods store, we maximise energy efficiency by using LEDs, electric motors, and natural ventilation. Our energy consumption is likely less than that of a typical home.

Sustainability also involves regeneration. Each year, I mentor two trainees who learn all aspects of this craft. In turn, they offer me fresh perspectives. Here is a reflection from one of them on their final year project:

What advice would you give to someone who wants to follow in your footsteps in the fashion and leather craft industry?

If it is truly your passion, don't be afraid and fight for it. The most beautiful thing in this world is to make a living from what you love.

What is your favourite piece of all the ones you have created?

The truth is that the favourite is always the one that is being created.