FASHION SPACE

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Allegra Hicks: A kaleidoscope history of a fashion icon

If you have ever wondered what it is like to float from pool to party, swathed in exotically printed silk, then welcome to Allegra Hick’s world. Picture this. It is the 90s. London is awash with grunge style, Nirvana’s ‘Smells Like Teen Spirit’ plays on the radio and minimalism is taking hold of the design scene. Yet, somewhere amidst all of that Allegra Hicks is crafting a world of bohemian luxury. While people donned cargo pants and slip dresses (no judgement, darling, it was the 90s after all), Allegra dressed London’s elite in her colourful kaftans.

Early memories that spark a lifetime of inspiration

But, how did Allegra Hicks become the queen of the silk kaftan? Let’s retrace her steps to the South of France. It has been noted that one of her earliest memories is at the Musée Picasso in Cap d’Antibes. It was here that she witnessed a Super 8 film of Picasso drawing a dove. This simple, one second glimpse into the artist’s process was enough to spark a lifetime of fascination with art as a form of expression. 

Memory and Connections

While at design school in Milan and New York, Allegra Hicks travelled back to this, now distant, memory. Yet it wasn’t until her stint at Van der Kelen school of decorative arts in Belgium that she really discovered her calling. The result? Her first fabric collection in 1995 and her namesake fashion line in 1999. Textiles quickly became the DNA of her work, but it was her silk kaftans that truly cemented her status as a fashion icon. 

The birth of an icon

The popularity of Allegra Hicks’ kaftans lies in their versatility. They are the outfit of choice when poolside in Capri and definitely won’t look out of place at a chic dinner party in Milan. Yet most women wore them for simply lounging at home while they pretended to be a lady of leisure who lounges in silk kaftans all day (a girl can dream, right?). A symbol of effortless glamour, if you wore an Allegra Hicks kaftan you belonged to an elite group of bohemian jet-set women, floating from one exotic destination to the next. 

Own a piece of fashion history

While a kaftan may sound like something a leftover hippy would wear after ‘finding themselves’ in India, when Allegra Hicks makes one, you know you need it in your life. If you want to relive the golden days of the late 90s and imagine yourself in a fancy St Tropez beach bar, this vintage number is for you. Turn heads and break hearts with this hot pink, flower pattern silk kaftan with a lovely peephole detail and billowing sleeves that are accentuated by elasticated wrists. Allegra Hicks is not afraid of making a statement and the side slit that ends just above the knee is the ultimate dose of high glamour. 

Kaftans were just the beginning

Despite the success of the kaftans, Allegra Hicks never considered herself to be a fashion designer, more so a lifestyle designer. Of course, her career is a kaleidoscope of designs ranging from interiors, art and fashion. Yet, in my opinion it was her kaftans that defined the tone of the era and dare I say it- a lifestyle. One that few enjoyed but many aspired to live. They symbolised an attitude and said “I’m here, I’m fabulous, and I don’t need to try too hard.” And really, isn’t that what we’re all striving for? 

An eternal design icon

Decades later and with rug, furniture, embroidery and fabric collections to her name it is apparent that her creative vision is still very much alive. Echoes of her initial exploration into the art world through frescos and watercolour filter through her work, reflecting the progress made not only as a lifestyle designer but as an artist. And, while she appears to have reached an end of an era with her fashion collections, her designs are still popular among avid vintage fashion collectors looking for a splash of colour and gypset glamour.