Sustainability is a dividing topic when it comes to fashion. While some designers embrace it, others view it as a trendy buzzword. But, those in the know will understand that in a world dominated by catwalks and champagne-soaked after-parties, sustainability is not exactly a glamorous topic. It is a bit more… how shall we say… problematic?

Sustainability: Fashion’s little dirty secret

Behind the frills, glossy magazines and designer labels lies a world clouded by a mess of pollution, waste and carbon emissions. And I am not just talking about fast fashion cycles. You only need to scratch beneath the surface of fashion’s luxury design houses to find some shocking statistics. Unfortunately, the truth is, that most fashion designers would rather spend their time and resources on perfecting their collections than dealing with the logistical nightmare of going green. And who can blame them? Being a sustainable fashion designer is hard work. 

Why is sustainability such a sore spot for fashion designers? 

In recent years, established brands such as Gabriela Hearst, Mara Hoffman,  Nina Rein, Santi Carballo, Eileen Fisher and British designer Stella McCartney have all worked to push the needle in the right direction. Their efforts have given us new terminology such as ethical fashion and slow fashion and have forced consumers to wake up to the environmental impact fashion has on the planet. Personally, I think facing the issue head-on is the only approach if we are to protect the Earth’s resources and create a positive impact. Yet, there are two key issues to address.

Control, or lack of

While it is a nice daydream to imagine fashion houses with their team of in-house seamstresses, sewing each item, it is just that! A daydream. Most brands don’t own the factories where their clothes are made. If they wanted to switch to more sustainable production processes, that would mean convincing their suppliers which, as you can imagine, is no small feat.

Cost

Sustainability doesn’t come cheap and for many, that is a hard pill to swallow. In an industry that drives production costs into the ground and pushes profits to dizzying heights, sustainability, in most cases, translates as reduced profit margins. Upgrading to green technologies, sourcing organic fabrics and notions and ensuring ethical production all cost money. Not to mention decarbonising the entire supply chain.

Maitrepierre, the sustainable fashion designer who makes saving the planet oh-so-chic

While the sustainable fashion landscape may appear bleak, not all hope is lost thanks to up-and-coming designer, Alphonse Maitrepierre. While other brands fret about the cost and technicalities of going green, Maitrepierre is decoding fashion’s climate maths. This doesn’t mean that he is changing his light bulbs for a more energy-efficient version or stitching together last season’s old stock. His ethos and concept go much further than that! 

It is time to rip up the rulebook and rewrite it in recycled ink

While many of fashion’s key players are busy greenwashing, Maitrepierre is rolling up his tailored sleeves and getting down to the nitty-gritty. This designer is not some fresh face straight out of fashion school. He has cut his teeth with John Paul Gaultier, Chanel, Acne Studios and has continued his design experience with renowned costume designer Yann Gonzalez.

When doors close, the mind opens to new possibilities

There is an act of rebellion in becoming a sustainable fashion designer that I love. Maitrepierre could have taken the easy route and designed with whatever fabrics and production methods he liked, without restrictions. But, instead, he chooses to use upcycled materials, remove new plastics from his designs and manage the production process himself. Restricting? Most certainly!  Liberating? Definitely. Breaking away from fashion’s norms forces this young designer to be even more creative with his designs. He is not content with just using organic cotton, and plant-based materials and reducing his carbon footprint. This is surface-level sustainability. For Maitrepierre, the importance of sustainability runs deep and requires an innovative approach that goes far beyond ethical production practices and the use of natural resources.

Fashion, it takes a village

Maitrepierre knows that creating eco-friendly collections requires a strong team. This is why he often collaborates with Paris-based Le Relais, a company dedicated to the resale of recycled fabrics. One Maitrepierre collection was created solely from white bed sheets which required expert draping and volume-enhancing techniques to turn it into something special. 

Another time, upcycled 1960s triple wool blankets were used to create a collection that put the quality of modern-day fashion to shame. Maitrepierre has even developed sequins from recycled plastic bottles and other plastics, proving that he is dedicated to rethinking the entire production process. He is pushing for greener technologies, demanding (and providing) transparency and - here is the kicker- he is doing it all without compromising on that so-important-element: luxury. 

Raising the bar, one collection at a time

Despite the lack of sustainable initiatives from the French government, the time and financial burden of sourcing eco-friendly materials, and the cost of fair trade deals for garment workers, Maitrepierre still manages to produce fashion-week-worthy designs. 

His collections shine a light on the true cost of being a sustainable fashion designer, proving that despite the hardships, fashion can be both stunning and eco-friendly. Now, there is no place for brands to hide, no more half-hearted attempts at being green, no phoney green credentials and definitely no more excuses. Thanks to sustainable fashion brands like Maitrepierre, other luxury brands are being forced to ditch their greenwashing ways and up their game- or risk being left behind. This means deadstock fabric is given a new life, social responsibility forms part of the brand DNA and environmental issues are the drivers of design. 

Leading the way for future generations

Yet, creating positive change, addressing environmental concerns and creating a more eco-conscious fashion industry comes at a price. Not just the expense of buying sustainable materials and paying fair wages. Of course, funding for Maitrepierre's sustainable brand has to come from somewhere. 

Can you imagine a little black dress made from wood pulp? Well, Maitrepierre's recent collaboration with Spanish brand Desigual is based on just that. Innovative materials such as the Naia Renew cellulose fabric show the growing demand, even on the high street for natural fabrics and environmental responsibility. 

Some say he is a sell-out. Others call him a genius. But the truth is, life as a luxury designer hellbent on building a sustainable design process and positive social impact costs money. And lots of it. Collaborating with the giants not only allows him to globally spread his eco-mission and creativity but also fund his own timeless pieces. His latest show at Paris Fashion Week is a testament to his dedication as a sustainable fashion designer.